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Nearer to Nyeri the bliss joked Lord Baden Powell, and if the Kikuyu's unofficial capital only ordinarily pleasant Treetops, The Ark and Mountain Lodge nearby must be most wildlife-lovers' idea of near-bliss. The main street is tidy with, half way up, a simple stone cenotaph.

To the Memory of the Members the kikuyu Tribe who died in the Fight for Freedom 1951-1957 and at the top, a fountain and clock 'Erected bv the People of kenya in Memory of George V. When in 1902 a kikuyu clan Tetu massacred an indian caravan the colonial authorities sent an expeditionary force and its commanding officer, Colonel Meinertzhagen, established his camp on a site that soon became this administrative center.

Treetops was the brain child of Eric Sherbrook Walker the answer, he wrote, for City stockbrokers whom he inched through the undergrowth stalking rhinoceros and who then stood up beside the animal, ticked Rhino' off their list and said "Now show me an elephant' The original built In 1932 was burned down by Mau Mau in 1954, to be rebuilt three-stoned in 1957 and extended in and '69.

Of the two Treetops' several royal visits, a plaque on the veranda commemorates the greatest: In this Mgumo Tree Her Royal Highness the Princess Elizabeth…. Succeeded to the Throne through the death of her father King George the sixth. Although she did not yet know it.

For the ‘most famous in the world' is driven up from the Out span hotel, through the Aberdares' Treetops Salient to the national park’s Treetops Cate (where the punctilious can verify their altitude, latitude and longitude) The ex-professional hunter cocks his wife and gives pep talk, with a warning stay in a tight quiet group, where upon the party splits up and chatters.

Wooden steps help visitors up the cedar-wood stilts into the huge Chestnuts. Baboons pilfer and pester, very much at home; Mount Kenya sometimes appears, and nocturnal game is floodlit on the water-hole below.